Starter clicks but engine won’t crank – Tech in trunk?

If your car’s starter clicks and the engine won’t turn over, this could be due to a number of things. The most common cause of a clicking sound when the car starts is a low battery. Most people would assume the starter is bad if it just clicks, but low voltage can cause the starter to make this noise.

The battery is the heart of the starting and electrical system. If the battery has died or has a weak cell, this can cause the starter to just click. Many times the battery could die because a door was left slightly open causing the dome light to stay on. Other times, a vanity light or phone charger may be left on. During my time as a Master Automotive Technician, a trusted coworker locked me in the trunk to make sure the trunk light went off when the trunk was closed.

To test the battery you must have a good charge. If the battery is not fully charged, the tester will indicate that it needs to be charged before testing can continue. The first step in checking the starter motor and electrical system is to make sure the battery is in good condition. Most parts stores will check batteries for free. Once the battery is determined to be good, the rest of the system can be checked. Loose or corroded connections can also cause the car to click and not start.

Start

The starter solenoid on many Ford vehicles is on the inner fender, on most other vehicles the starter solenoid will be mounted on the starter. The click heard many times is the solenoid. But low voltage from a dead battery, a bad battery, or poor connections can cause this. Most of the time, if the vehicle can be started, the starter is fine. This would also indicate that the connections to the starter motor are good.

Alternator

Once the vehicle is running, the alternator output can be checked. If the alternator is not charging the battery, it will be depleted during the process of starting the car and driving. When the alternator is checked, the voltage and amperage output can be measured. The diode pattern will also be checked to make sure the alternator doesn’t drain the battery when the engine is turned off. In the past, DIYers could disconnect the battery while the vehicle was running to check the alternator, if the car was still running the alternator was fine. Doing this in computerized vehicles can be harmful. If the battery is disconnected while a computerized vehicle is running, the alternator output can spike, allowing excess voltage to surge to the computer.

Drums

When purchasing a replacement battery, the cold cranking amps required for the vehicle should be checked. It is best to buy a battery with more cold cranking amps than the minimum required. Also, when buying a battery, you should consider whether or not you want it to be maintenance free. If the battery is difficult to access or has a cover, a maintenance-free battery is preferred. For example, on some Chrysler Sebrings and Chevrolet Corvettes, the battery is located behind an inner fender and on a Chevrolet SSR. The battery is located under the bed where the spare tire would normally go. If you install the battery yourself, be sure to note which side is positive and negative in case you were sold the wrong battery.

terminals

The terminals must be free of corrosion and must be tightened well. Sometimes, especially on import vehicles, the battery terminals will be very thin and may have hairline cracks causing a poor connection. Avoid forcing the battery terminals by hitting them. The battery case may be damaged and lead to leakage; If battery acid leaks, it can cause rapid corrosion. If the battery terminal bolts do not tighten, it is recommended to replace the terminals. When the connections are tight, you should not be able to twist them by hand.

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