We all know how effective fish tubes can be in internally weighted heads. The fact is that if you only use them in this way, you are seriously hampering the true potential of this bait and its versatility. I discovered, many years ago, that tube fishing in algae-filled waters was a great way to catch fish. The problem I encountered was that the open hook would continually and mercilessly snag all day long. To combat this, I simply tried mounting the tube on a Texas rig. Ultimately I settled on a brass and glass platform which has always given me good results. This kit combines sexy tubes, aroma and sound to form a complete package of attention-grabbing bass.
Equipment: 6-6 medium fast action spinning rods. The best rods for this method are high modulus models with a solid backbone. I use a Kistler Helio LTA 6-6 He66MS. This rod gives me a light overall weight and soft tip, but also the brute strength of a bouncer to pull bigger bass towards the boat. You don’t fish delicately, you say? Well, consider that I normally use an 8lb line and occasionally drop it down to a lighter 6lb Yo Zuri Hybrid. Even on the thickest cover, I’ve gotten by with the lighter lines. You can use a 20lb super line like Sea King’s 20/6 or 14/4. These will help cut through vegetation with ease. I prefer a real relationship quite fast. For the tubes I choose Shimano, no surprise, Sustain 2500 FD. This royal is as dependent as they come.
Terminal Tackle: My tube rig works best with brass Weenie weights. I like the 1/16 or 1/8 Top Brass Tackle Weenie weights painted black. The weenie weight is simply a shorter and wider sliding bullet weight that is made of brass. This produces much better sound amplification and is environmentally friendly. For hooks, I use Sugoi 3/0, 3/0 Owner Rig n hook, or a Gamakatsu EWG 3/0. What sets this method apart from standard Texas kits is that I use a fire polished faceted glass bead. This accomplishes two things. First, the bead reflects light and blinks. I really think this is one of the best attributes of the platform. Second, the bill and weight of the weenie moves back and forth, sometimes attracting fish to its location. Fire-polished, faceted glass beads are super hard and won’t cut your line.
The Tube: The ONLY tube I use is a Micro Munch Tackle Wicked Tube. This bait is a thick walled hand submerged tube that holds the hook very well. The double thickness wall gives the tube durability and is necessary in thick casing to prevent breakage. The fish do not hold on to the bait, they eat it. This tube is dipped in a salt-impregnated plastic mix and then Kick N Bass scent is added to the plastic before the tubes are molded. This produces a tube that is remarkably stinky.
I have found this tube mounted on a Sugoi 3/0 hook useful in almost every tournament I have fished. If you’ve been paying attention so far, you’ll notice that this team employs sight, smell, taste, and sound to tempt Mr. Bass. If you have ever fished with the Wicked Tube, you will surely have noticed the oil stain that the bait produces in the water. Their scent will make all the cats in the neighborhood cling to their dry storage box to get to them. I prefer the standard 4″ tube, but occasionally upgrade to the larger El Gordo style tube. This is a quad dip tube that is extremely durable and adds incredible volume. It’s really different and I think that’s why it works well for me, not many other anglers cast it regularly. Its size alone can be intimidating to some. I’ve noticed it catches bigger fish as well.
Colors: I prefer the following colors; Green Pumpkin, Black Grape, Water Melon Magic, June Bug, Smoke Purple Scale, Road Kill Camo, and Black Red Scale. I match the glass bead to the bait. Black, brown, purple or green beads will match all of the colors mentioned above.
Rig – This rig can be set up just like the traditional Texas rig. Slide the Weenie weight up the line followed by the glass bead. No need to set weight or count. Next, tie the hook in a Palomar knot for strength. Bury the tip of the hook about a 1/4-inch dead center in the pipe head. Pull the hook through the side of the bait until the eye of the hook enters the head of the tube. Next, reattach the hook to the side and pull the point back, penetrating through the opposite side of the tube (out again). The tube must be straight. The point of the hook should be exposed and snug against the meaty side of the tube. The exposed point allows for easier penetration into the hook set. The hook does not have to penetrate the extra plastic in the tube, so it sinks into the fish’s mouth with minimal effort.
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“With this rig, I usually notice one of two things: I either feel the bass chewing on the tube, similar to a plastic worm, or I don’t feel the bait at all, which means a bass has picked it up and usually walks away with it.”
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The presentation
This tube is very effective in 8 feet of water or less. Its light weight will not allow it to fish effectively beyond that depth. Because it is weedless it can be fished almost anywhere and if you add a heavier weight you can surely plumb the depths with it. I prefer docks, boathouses, any upper decks, entry points, and floors. Of course, the rig will work anywhere as long as shallow cover can be found. The rig works when going under or through the deck. This is what sets the equipment apart from conventional tube equipment. The tube itself is weightless. When cast, the Weenie’s weight falls off the bait and slowly drifts to the bottom. The tube flutters to the bottom even slower. His slow fall is a crucial trait to his success. Standard tube decks that have an internal weight coiled to the bottom.
They are directly weighted and fall through the entire strike zone faster than the Texas platform. As the weight of the Texas tube rig slides forward, it slowly pulls on the bait. This is why I don’t use bait casting equipment. Flipping and throwing are not accurate introductions for this team. I like to jump my bait past the target so it falls slowly through cover. After casting to a piece of cover, I try to keep a tight line because very often the bait hits just as it enters the water. If I don’t feel a hit, then I can shake the rod tip so the heel and weight make some noise. I then let the tube fall to a controlled slack line and cover the bottom column of the water I’m working with.
I do not fish this bait in open water as I would prefer internally mounted tubes for that. I target specific visible cover and try to separate it as best I can despite the “fall off cover” action the bait has. Getting the bait to jump is the true art of accurate presentation with this rig. Sometimes I try to make the bait crash through the cover so that it actually goes through my target. This is because a forceful cast will not allow the weight to create drag on the cast and keep the bait on target. The bait will pass through the cover and stay in the strike zone longer. You may also be able to fling a jump cast to get the bait right on target. The 1/16 oz weight will not pull the bait as much as a heavier size.
Make the brass weight and glass work to produce some sound. I move the rod tip very slightly, maybe just an inch or two at a time. You don’t want to over exaggerate your movements. Slight movements are key because you don’t want to physically move the bait while trying to make it ring.
The Bite: Many tube bites just feel like a wet, mushy rag at the end of the line feel. With this rig, I usually notice one of two things: I either feel the bass chewing on the tube, similar to a plastic worm, or I don’t feel the bait at all, meaning a bass has picked it up and usually walks away with it. This happens because the tube is weightless and the bass feels no resistance in the form of an unnatural internal weight. Normally the line will start to move. Polarized sunglasses are essential for this technique. It is important with this and most other jig techniques to “weight the line”. What this means is learning how the bait feels in the water. Usually any lighter or heavier sensation is a hit. When I catch a hit, I really like to spin the hook. Even though I tend to use a light line and adjust my drag, I rarely stop on a fish. Normally if I hang a monster I will disengage the rear and anti-reverse spool. I use a sweep set as this allows me to move more line than the standard over the shoulder jerk jig. I am not exaggerating when I say that fish do not spit out the tube. They just don’t. They really eat it.
Seasons
Texas drill pipe protrudes during early spring and into early fall. I just prefer to fish other baits at different times of the year. It is an excellent attractor for large fish because it has a thick profile and does not give off many if any negative signals. Armed with a glass bead, it appeals to all the serious senses and, as I said before, “These tubes are eaten.” The combination of salt and aroma is hard for any sea bass to turn down.
Equipment Breakdown: Texas Tube Fishing Madness
Rod: Kislter Helio LTA 6-6M He66MS
Reel: Shimano Sustain FD 2500
Line: Yo Zuri Hybrid 8lb
Hook: Sugoi or Gamakatsu 2/0 or 3/0 EWG
Tube: 4″ Micro Munch Tackle Wicked Tube
Terminal: Superior brass tackle Brass weight and fire polished faceted glass bead
Alternatives
Texas drill pipe is a very consistent producer. If by chance the bass wants a different look, there are several alternatives. I’m a big fan of delicate west coast techniques. My sleeper tube rig is the same rig, but with the heel nailed 18 inches above the hook. The sinker can still slide freely and a striking fish will not feel additional weight. This rig can be slid off the bottom similar to a Carolina rig. This is a noise presentation as the heel and weight are always in contact.
We all know that tubes are very versatile. I have used these tubes to work bass on inner and outer grass lines with amazing consistency over the past few seasons. This is one of those great baits that no one should be without. It can be especially important for guys who don’t prefer to release a template.
copyright 2005 Micro Munch Tackle
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