Pros and cons of hand strength grip tests for climbers

Hand strength is usually tested with equipment called a hand dynamometer. There are numerous styles and types of dynamometers, but they are all basically designed the same way. The device’s trigger is pulled with maximum effort and held for five seconds.

Results are determined from the best of several trials after allowing a minimum of at least 15 seconds of recovery time between each trial. Improvement is measured by comparing the results of the previous test with the current tests. Assuming continuous training is practiced between tests, improvements should register on the dynamometer. The validity of test results obtained with dynamometers is sometimes questioned, as there are several conditions that can affect the result.

Here is a brief summary of the pros and cons of using this type of hand grip strength test.

advantage

  • The test is very simple and easy to administer for both left and right handed users.
  • The dynamometer is a widely used and accepted strength testing device, so there is a concise and consistent scoring table.

cons

  • Users should be sure to recalibrate the dynamometer as necessary to ensure accurate results.
  • Rest tests between periods should always be the same to ensure accuracy.
  • Techniques and arm positions can vary widely from one test to another. To be sure that the results are true, people must repeat the test in exactly the same way each time.
  • The dynamometer must be adjusted to the size of the individual’s hand, which can result in inadequate results if not done correctly.
  • The dynamometer does not isolate only hand force, as it also requires the use of forearm force.
  • Final results are largely determined by an individual’s motivation to complete the test.

Although there appear to be advantages and disadvantages to using a dynamometer to measure hand strength, it is still the most reliable method available. Regular hand exercise can improve and maintain hand grip strength.

Simple hand strength exercises include squeezing a tennis ball or bean bag for 8 to 10 repetitions. Push exercises can be done anywhere, anytime without equipment. Simply bring your hands together in prayer style and apply light pressure, hold and relax for several repetitions.

Hand grip exercises can help build forearm strength which is essential for rock climbing and bouldering. Hanging from a pull-up bar is a great gripping exercise, but so is simply walking while gripping hand weights.

The most important item to remember is to include a variety of exercises in your work outings. Try to incorporate hand, wrist, finger, and forearm exercises into each workout. Ultimately, this will provide the best overall strength workout.

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